May 22, 2006 | Skin Renewal
Tanning the Healthy Way
One hundred years ago, when it was the height of fashion to have milky white skin, women wore sun bonnets, carried parasols, and their clothing covered their bodies from chin to ankles. But since the great Coco Chanel made sunbathing fashionable, women and men have exposed every inch of themselves to the sun’s light. Only recently, have we learned what a great price has been paid in terms of permanent skin damage due to excessive sun exposure. Since it is unlikely that we will resort to our grandmothers’ way of dressing, we have come to expect skin care products to protect us from the sun and provide treatment after sun exposure.The problem is not only one of excessive sun exposure. Scientists currently believe the thinning of the ozone layer may also be an important factor in causing sun-damaged skin. The ozone layer is located 10 to 30 miles about the earth’s surface and its primary purpose is to shield the earth from the sun’s damaging rays. We have found that natural and man-made chemicals, including chlorofluorocarbons, refrigerants and some aerosol sprays, are attacking this ozone layer and causing its depletion. Before proceeding with discussion of ways to avoid and treat excessive solar exposure, we must first direct our attention to the causative factors of sun- damaged skin.
HERE COMES THE SUN
Solar energy or light is merely energy within the ultraviolet (UV) light spectrum. There are ultraviolet B rays which are a short wave length and are predominantly responsible for sunburn and skin cancer. There are also ultraviolet A rays (UVA), low energy rays that reach the deeper layers of the skin and stimulate melanin, a naturally occurring pigment in our skin. Once thought to be harmless, researchers now know that UVA plays a role in skin cancer and leads to premature wrinkling. In response to excessive solar exposure, our bodies manufacture melanin, a natural pigment in the skin cells that absorbs UV light and therefore permits tanning.
Tanning is the skin’s response to the ultraviolet exposure by producing more cells which make melanin. It is ironic that a tan is actually the skin’s response to ultraviolet damage. Even a light tan represents a little permanent damage. A deep tan represents more permanent damage and a sunburn adds up to even greater injury.
The skin is the largest organ in the body. Its principle functions are protection, excretion, secretion, absorption, heat regulation, pigmentation production and sensation. All of these functions are reduced in solar damaged and aged skin.
In solar-damaged skin there is a flattening of the junction of the epidermal and dermal layers. The epidermis functions as the thin outer layer of the skin which continuously sheds itself each day. The deeper dermal skin segment houses the sweat glands, sebaceous glands and proteins, giving the skin natural softness and resilience. This flattening between the junction of these two layers results in a more fragile tissue. It is less resistant to shear forces, provides less protection and is characterized by excessive wrinkling.
SKIN CANCER IS ON THE RISE
Ultraviolet radiation causes an immediate or reactive reddening and inflammation of the skin, followed by sunburn and then photo damage with prolonged solar exposure. With these facts in mind, America’s love of the deep golden glow of a tan has led to a spiraling incidence of skin cancer rates. Since 1980, the incidence of the disease has grown 50 per cent, with some 400,000 to 600,000 new cases reported each year. In fact, melanoma, the more advanced type of skin cancer, is now the number one cancer among women aged 25-29 and is second only to breast cancer in women aged 30-34.
The incidence of skin cancer is primarily due to increased outdoor activities as well as the popularity of tanning. A factor contributing to solar skin damage is the intensity of the solar energy. The geographical latitude (distance from the equator to the area where you are sunning) is very important in determining the intensity of the sun’s rays. The shorter the distance from the equator, the shorter the energy-absorbing passage through the atmosphere; this subsequently makes the radiation stronger on the earth’s surface, creating a dangerous scenario for tanning.
Second, the seasons also affect the angle at which the sun’s rays fall to a point on earth. The maximum intensity occurs when the object in question is closest to the sun, that is, in the summer, with the lowest intensity occurring during the winter.
Thirdly, the time of day is also an important factor with the intensity of sunlight reaching maximum strength between 10:00 am and 3:00 pm. Reflection is also an important factor in determining solar intensity because some features of the earth’s surface can multiply the effect of sunlight. Ice or snow reflects 60 to 90% of the sunlight striking it and sand increased the intensity of the sun’s rays by 20 percent.
Even though the above factors play an important role in altering the intensity of sunlight exposure, the skin type of the recipient is the most important factor. Of the varying skin types (including normal, combination and oily), dry or dehydrated skin is extremely sensitive to environmental factors such as sun exposure, various crèmes and external impurities. This skin type is highly susceptible to solar damage because of its dehydrated state, the thinness of the dermis, and the common finding of a reduced number of melanin-producing cells which we know act as protection from ultraviolet exposure.
A discussion of solar protection would be incomplete without addressing sunscreens. Topical sunscreens reduce the consequences of sun exposure by absorbing, reflecting or scattering the solar radiation. Topical sunscreens are divided into two general categories: physical and chemical. Physical sunscreens are opaque compounds that mostly reflect and scatter ultraviolet and visible radiation. Some of the more common physical sunscreen ingredients include titanium dioxide, talc, magnesium oxide and zinc oxide. Chemical sunscreens contain one or more ultraviolet-absorbing chemicals which act as filters and decrease the penetration of the ultraviolet rays to the cells of the dermis and epidermis.
Most of the commercial topical sunscreens contain one or more colorless UVB and UVA-absorbing chemicals in a nonmoisturizing base that binds to protect the skin. Para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) is the most widely used sunscreen chemical that absorbs predominantly in the UVB range. The vehicle in which the ultraviolet-absorbing chemical is incorporated can also determine whether a sunscreen can remain effective under general use. For example, water based gels sweat and wash off more easily and need to be applied more frequently. Most oils do not contain sufficient amounts of sunscreen and usually have an SPF of less than two.
WHEN TO PROTECT
Regardless of your skin type, a sunscreen should be used on a daily basis and the recommended SPF of 15 should be used on the face. One thing to remember is that the SPF of sunscreens only reflects the product’s screening ability for UVB rays. The sunscreen SPF rating is calculated by comparing the amount of time needed to produce a sunburn on unprotected skin. For example, if a person who normally turns red after ten minutes in the sun uses an SPF of two, it would take 20 minutes of exposure for the skin to burn. It should also be stressed that lips are extremely sensitive to sun exposure because they are only lightly pigmented. It is highly recommended to use a lip balm containing sunscreen and Vitamin E in a light moisturizer.
The keys to preventing excessive sun exposure and the higher risk of developing a skin cancer are:
- use of a sunscreen of at least SPF 15
- liberal reapplication of sunscreen hourly
- avoidance of solar exposure between 10 am and 3 pm
- limited use of tanning salons and sunbathing
Permanent damage from the sun has led to a vigorous effort by manufacturers to develop natural-looking sunless tanners that avoid the telltale “orangey” look. But remember, if your tan comes from a bottle, you must still protect your skin when you venture outdoors.
THE HEALTHY TAN
My recommendation for tanning is as follows. If you skin type is pale with limited amount of pigmentation and if you have blonde or red hair, your chances of tanning without burning are extremely limited. I therefore recommend no excessive exposure to solar energy, wearing protective clothing, and the generous and repetitive use of sunscreen. If your skin is thicker, slightly oily and contains more pigment, I have found the following plan to be extremely beneficial.
Prior to your trip in the sun, we would recommend a limited number of visits to your local tanning booth in order to stimulate melanin production. Once you have reached your destination, for the first few days you should use sun block mixed with a small amount of an aloe-based gel, with extra application over the more sun exposed areas. For the next few days, you could resort to a lower SPF sunscreen with the continued use of an aloe-based gel which contains anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. In this way, you can gradually increase the amount of melanin production and therefore achieve your tan with much less solar and permanent skin damage.