Skin Care
Skin Deep - Clean and Clear
The skin is the largest and probably the most mistreated human organ. Skin health is constantly threatened by excessive sun exposure, irritating crèmes, allergic reactions and improper cleansing techniques.
The skin care services and products industry is big and growing, targeting all ages and segments of our society. It is interesting to note that acne, one of the more severe forms of skin infection will affect approximately 85 percent of the population during their lifetime. With the reality of this fact, it becomes important to address the preventative measures that can lead to improved skin health and vitality. This article will describe the reasons for poor skin health and what measures can be undertaken to avoid them.
As a plastic surgeon, I became involved in skin care in an effort to prepare and improve skin health prior to surgical or skin resurfacing procedures. The most commonly asked questions by my patients were “what should I be using on my skin to prevent flare-ups?” and “what type of cleaner would you recommend?” My best response to these questions was to propose an individualized cleansing and clearing program specifically focused toward the skin type of that patient.
First, let’s talk about the Basic Skin Types.
Combination Skin is characterized by oiliness in the T-zone which is the area between the eyebrows and the nose. This skin type can also be associated with some dry areas, small pore size and oiliness usually recurring within three to four hours after cleansing. Many people in this category may also have a tendency for some inflammatory changes with periodic outbreaks of rashes on the cheeks and chin.
Oily Skin is characterized by general skin oiliness with normal to enlarged pores and sporadic outbreaks because of excessive oil production. People with this skin type may also have problematic skin which is thicker and more prone to inflammation and infection.
Dry or Dehydrated Skin is usually a result of excessive loss of water from the surface and is characterized by abnormal breaking of the skin. The skin is extremely thin and may be transparent with closed, small pores. A subtype of dry skin is sensitive/dry skin which is overly dehydrated and may be exceptionally sensitive to environmental stimuli such as sun exposure, a variety of crèmes or external impurities. Also under this skin type, one might find the prematurely aged skin with sun damage, irregular pigmentation and excessive wrinkling around the eyes.
PROTECTING SKIN HEALTH
There are many reasons for poor skin health. In many situations, some types of generalized body disease process may be revealing itself as skin irritation or inflammation. Oral medication, such as steroid therapy, may manifest itself as thin fragile skin, prone to rashes and inflammation. Another important cause of poor skin health would be too much sun exposure, which leads to irregular pigmentation and protein breakdown in the dermis leading to eventual irregular oil production and enhanced wrinkling of the skin. Excessive oil production by the sebaceous glands connected to the hair follicles may also cause poor skin health due to an increase in the number of bacteria in the dermis, resulting in such common conditions as acne. Skin health may be impaired by exposure to noxious environmental factors, such as irritating chemicals and impurities. We often see this condition because of skin inflammation and allergic reactions caused by irritating crèmes and cosmetics. Poor hygiene, with improper individualized cleansing and clearing to remove debris and impurities, can lead to poor skin health.
In the current industry of cleansers or soaps, we find that they are primarily made up of fatty acids containing harsh alkali products. These combine to produce a detergent effect with a harsh and non- natural approach to cleansing. Unfortunately, most of the over-the-counter cleansing agents also contain harsh artificial scents and imitation colors. They may produce the unwanted side effects of inflammation or allergic reactions.
Cleanliness and exfoliation are the most important factors in obtaining and retaining healthy skin. The goal is to remove a film of makeup, dead skin cells, impurities and excessive oiliness. Toning or clearing, is a very important second step because it removes traces of the cleansers and penetrated deeper to dislodge residue and deposits in pores and also to restore the natural pH, or acid level, in the skin.
Any cleansing and clearing program should be focused on two main concepts.
1. A naturalized approached to cleansing and toning with no harsh synthetic chemicals and the use of only natural scents.
2. An individualized approach to cleansing and toning so as to better cleanse the skin relative to skin type and the oil content.
I have explored the area of natural cleansers for some time and recommend the following natural ingredients for cleansing.
Cucumber extracts with naturally astringent properties
Ginseng which soothes irritated surfaces and relieves inflammation
Honey, a natural skin emollient which softens and protects
Milk, a soothing natural skin cleanser
Lecithin, from the Greek meaning “egg yolk” which is a natural emollient. It is traditionally used to moisturize and lubricate the skin.
Rosemary, a botanical extract which softens, revitalized and stimulates the skin
Chamomile with natural astringent properties and the ability to relieve
inflammation